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Shoes are not manufactured, they are assembled as they travel through a series of rooms or departments, each doing a particular segment of the assembly process. Even with the use of modern machines it still takes between 100 and 150 separate operations to make a pair of shoes. Men's Shoes in Size 12 to 20 will discuss the basic assembly process below.
Cutting Room
From the material to be used in a shoe, leather, man made, ect. all the pieces for the upper (see upper materials) of the shoe are cut out here. The cutting is done by clicking machines that are fitted with cutting dies, think "cookie cutter". This is a very important process as the amount of waste can "make or break" the profit in this particular shoe. Cutting room employees are very skilled at getting the most pieces from a hide.
Stitching Room
This is where the upper parts coming from the cutting room are sewn together. Most of the refinements to the upper are finished in the stitching room, finishing edges, applying perforations, fancy stitching and inserting eyelets to name a few. The upper must be a finished unit before going to the stock fitting room.
Stock Fitting Room
The parts assembled in this room include outsoles, insoles, counters, toe boxes, shanks, heels, ect. These pieces are attached to the last to form a semi-completed unit.
Lasting Room
In this operation the upper and lining are drawn tightly over the last (see last) and attached to the insole. This is done in separate operations such as toe lasting, heel seat lasting, ect. This is done by machines that grip the upper and stretch it over the last. Proper lasting is critical to proper fit and apperance of the shoe.
Bottoming Room
This is where the outsole is attached to the semi-finished shoe. The shoe is also given finishing touches here, sole edging, trimming, ect. Depending on the type of construction being used the bottoms are attached by stitching, cementing or heat-molding.
Making Room
If the style requires a separate heel (women's high heels) it is applied here. The heels are trimmed, stained and other finishing touches are applied.
Finishing Room
Here the last is pulled from the shoe. This department also applies special finishes such as burnishing or antiquing if the pattern requires.
Treeing and Packing Room
All the final cleaning and dressing is done here. This includes laces, bows and buckles, heel pads and sock linings. The shoe receives final inspection and is ready to be packed in boxes.
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